I don't remember growing older...

We did a bit of outback driving this week, spending one night in Marromeu before heading out the next morning on a new (for us) 300 km dirt road through the jungle and countryside to eventually make it down to Beira.  We carried the two Marromeu Elders with us for the last leg.  All in all it was an interesting drive, about seven hours of which were on some pretty rough road.  We were glad to have had some work done on the car, which included getting rid of obnoxious rattles (the wonders of rivets we discovered) and getting our air conditioner recharged and functioning again.  It made the trip considerably more pleasant.  I think that new shocks and struts are next on the list.

This creature should not have been where we found it.  We are quite accustomed to finding baboons and vervet monkeys on the trip to Marromeu, but we saw this creature lope across the road from a distance and knew that it didn't quite look like either of them. When we arrived at the spot of its crossing it turned and faced us and was like no other primate I had ever seen, even in a zoo.   An internet search informed us that the critter turns out to be a  "Blue Monkey" so named because it is in fact a blue monkey.  It is found in Mozambique, but not allegedly where this one was.  Actually, it was quite a beautiful creature.

Speaking of beautiful creatures... On a brief stretching break.  Please forgive the lack of a tie--I am a weak man and sometimes can,t stand to wear one on the long road trips.

 

 

We arrived in Beira for a conference and training by Elder Renlund, one of the LDS general Authorities (for the non-LDS, among the central leadership of the church--and president of the Africa Southeast Area comprising thirty something countries).  Some of the senior missionaries had dinner with him and Sister Renlund on Thursday night.  Finding myself seated across from him, I couldn't keep myself from asking about a far-fetched plan that had recently occurred to me.  To my surprise, he didn't immediately brand me a heretic, but rather liked the idea and didn't see any problem with proceeding forward.  More on this later--we will see if it "has legs" or not in the coming weeks.  Debbie and I were both very very impressed with Elder Renlund's manner and message (though not for the first time).  At the conclusion and as we were gathering to go, he asked us to pause and wait for a moment and very soberly and quietly, and in behalf of the church and the prophet, thanked us all for our service and sacrifice.  It was a surprisingly touching thing for us.



Our group of missionaries (young and old) gathered in Beira for the conference--comprising a little more than half of the missionary force in Mozambique.

Elder Renlund's wife is Ruth, with whom I was very good friends and dated for years of my youth--and also a friend of Debbie.  I calculated that this week marked forty years since we had met and we concluded that we were both physically unchanged since that time. She also spoke and provided excellent training at the conference and it was fun for me to see her in that role. It was Ruth who was the first to encourage Debbie and I to consider a mission to Mozambique when we visited in South Africa a couple of years ago.  With a smile, I claim that she has sent me off on two missions.

 

Wet and Slimy Things

We took hte young missionaries to Zalala Beach today, to a spot where the water was very refreshing and the sand relatively fluffy and California-like--unlike the concrete-sand conditions of much of our local coastline.  The day was beautiful and we had a great and relaxing time.  We never fail to see a couple of new things when we come.  The young elders couldn't join me, but I had a wonderful and refreshing swim today.

The fish are for the most part quite small that are caught i nnets right off the beach.  They use the dugout canoes to take the net off shore, then they haul it in by hand.  The creation of these very sea-worthy canoes is a fascinating thing to me.

This was a pretty good size stingray caught on a hook and line right off shore.  I am rather glad that I didnt step on one when I went out for a swim.

Interesting Asian looking eyebrows to this crab.  Which reominds me, a fellow approached me on the beach today and I could have sworn that he asked me about the church or "igreja" and I responded appropriatly. But Debbie, who obviously speaks much better portuguese than I, said kindly"you idiot, he was asking if you wanted to buy some crabs (which is "caringeijo").  Oh well, no wonder he wasn't too interested in my gospel exposition.

A soccer game ensued with the locals when we brought out the ball.  And Debbie walked the beach looking for treasures.

Elder Workman and I are seen here minding the cooking (in our car wheel barbecue) of steak strips for our sandwiches.

When we drove onto the beach, there was hardly a soul around, but soon, 100 feet distant, a crown gathered and sat and simply watched the spectacle of eight white folk doing something other than fishing on the beach.



Our current batch of young missionaries are left to right, Elders Steel, Sorenson, Gibson, Berg, Williams and Workman.

Black and White

We have had some tough news on the family front that has taken a little wind from our sails and cast a bit of pall on life--but yet there are bright and beautiful things that serve to offset the sadness and serve to buoy the spirits.  Here is a bright spot.



Four people were baptized today.  Two of them were adult children of other recent converts Rui and Amizade.  Another (Neusa) was taught with her family but was the only one ready and willing to change her life   And one (Pedro) was taught and dropped for a time by the missionaries for lack of progress, but decided in the end to get himself in gear. 
Elder Workman on the far left is among the finest of missionaries and will return home in but a couple of weeks.  But this is the first time that he has been able to personaly baptize someone who he has taught.  We were excited to see him be able to do this.
Rocha, 2nd from the left, was released from jail a few weeks ago.  He is the son of Amizade and spend six months in the slammer prior to having a hearing on the charge of receiving stolen property.  I have learned much about Mozambican jurisprudence in the last months as a result of Rocha.  He was taught in jail by the missionaries and his father and read the entire book of Mormon there.  He finally had his hearing a few weeks ago and was released without any charges being filed.  Though not a terribly patriotic flag waver, I still have not found another country whose system I admire more than my own.



Here is our baptismal tank in all its glory.  It has developed a fairly serious leak for which I am seeking a solution.  This is Neusa (pronounced "newza" --actually not quite but that is as close as I can describe the name in English) who I baptized today.  I really wasn't asking her to jump to me as it looks, just taking her hands to help her in.



Pedro suffered a stroke a few years ago and is still fairly immobile.  The young missionaries were able to lift him over the walls of the tank and into the water without problems it turns out.   I insisted that they practice last night with Elder Williams as the guinea pig.  If there was to be a drowning or someone falling on their head, I wanted it done before people were watching.  Elder Williams survived just fine and the practice assured that we knew what we were doing.



Bike Safety in Quelimane.  We saw this guy taking his less-than two year old son the other day with one hand trying desperately to keep him from falling into the spokes or traffic.

This is our home in Fairbanks, Alaska, or at least a corner of the living room.  Please note the antlers of the 88th largest (according to Pope and Young) archery-shot moose on the wall.  After a year on the market we finally have an offer on the house--which is a great relief.  If anyone is inclined to pray that this sale actually occurs, we would welcome your faith added to ours.

Northern ports of call

We have been on the road for a few days, visiting Nampula where we did our usual work of teaching and the like.  But Sunday, after church where we both spoke, we headed north from there and over to the coast to the bustling port city of Nacala.  There was allegedly a small group of church members that met there who we wanted to visit.  It was a beautiful drive, taking us farther north in Mozambique that we have heretofore been.  We found our group and had a great time with them--meeting in the groupleader's home.  The service was conducted in portuguese but hymns and talks were in English (even mine, which was actually awfully hard to do).  The people were Mozambican and Zimbawean and delightful.  We had dinner with them as well and heard a few African stories like in the tragedy-filled books like Debbie likes to read.

It just so happens that Nacala also possesses some spectacularly beautiful beaches on which we found ourselves nearly alone on Monday morning.

An interesting little crab, the likes of which I had never seen.  Its shell was a mix of hard and soft matter.

We thought this a very picturesque washday scene in a little clear-water river that we passed.  It made me want to go down and bathe too--or at least wash my socks.

this is the owner of the young missionaries home, a muslim with whom I am trying to negotiate some security enhancements to the home.  I noted the orange dyed marks on her palms and she explained that it was part of the celebration of Eide, or last day of Ramadan which occurred this week.  Her finger and toenails were all painted this color as well as her palms.

This young woman is named Tinoca (on the left) and a recent addition to our investigator pool.  A woman of great faith and focus and I will be surprised if she does not really engage and take hold of the gospel.  She had a very impressive experience in our first couple of lessons that have left her pretty enthusiastic for more. 

Day of Service Africa Style

     Saturday, August 18, was the official day of service for church members throughout Africa.  Branches through out many countries had been preparing service projects and alerting local media to these projects.  Our group in Quelimane is small and we were not able to do a project.  But this was our weekend in Nampula, up north, and we were so excited to meet at the church at 7am on Saturday to help with the service project cleaning at a local hospital. There were about 55 members working on Saturday.We were so impressed with the organization of the project.  The branch had ordered a chapa (mini-bus) that was, in true Africa form, quite late.  So Elder Osborn took a truck load of youth and supplies over first and then another car load went with the YW president and then the chapa came.  We sent a youth to the market to buy a bunch of hand brooms for 5mt. each to sweep the dust in front of the hospital.  That is about 20cents per broom.
     We cleaned outside the entire hospital, sweeping, edging, weeding flower boxes, picking up trash and washing the floor in the chapel.  Some of the more interesting things found in the clean-up were a melted hearing aid, tons of peppermint wrappers (hospital treats) whiskey bottles, prescription forms, insulin bottles, hospital dressings and a mighty big syringe!  Everyone was in a great mood and the administrator gave a little thank-you talk to us when we were done.  A local reporter had received the news announcement from the church and came over to talk to the leaders about the project.  When we were back at the church having some light refreshments, a radio show reporter came and interviewed Toby, which was a surprise, but quite fun.  We praised the branch members high and low for their participation in the great day of service that was held through out Africa.  Perhaps next year, Quelimane will be able to participate as well.


The whole group inside the foyer of the hospital; it used to be a Catholic church.



Everyday in Mozambique you see people sweeping dirt.  It goes make things
cleaner, but I marvel at doing the same thing over and over again with the same dirt.

The trash brigade.

The branch members brought the mops and brooms used to clean the church to this project.

These brethren were working hard, but wanted to pose for the camera.  Africans
just love to have their picture taken!!



We brought our zone leaders, Elder Steel and Elder Gibson with us.  The Nampula Elders
are Elder Bradford, Elder D'Olivera, Elder Paxman and Elder Bigelow.

Helping Babies Breathe

     We have had an interesting week with some humanitarian missionaries from the States here in Quelimane to do an HBB (helping babies breath) training for four days.  This is part of an outreach in the humanitarian focus in our church.  In four days they trained over 110 different health care providers in the important field of neo-natal resuscitation.  Each day they had a group of about 20-30 people from the city and outlaying areas spend the  day learning and practicing these techniques.  Then they are tasked with teaching five others these skills in the next year.  The church does follow-up to see if that is accomplished.  Apparently many babies in third world countries are pronounced dead, when they only need their airways cleared or some stimulation.  The percentages of infant deaths really goes down in places where the training is held.
     This was exciting for our province as it is the first time it has been done here.  We didn't have to do anything but bring our truck full of supplies from Maputo after our trip to South Africa, but we have really enjoyed meeting these missionaries.People who attend get a housing stipend and a bag full of supplies to take to their village as well as great meals catered each day.
        Heidi is a Nurse Practitioner in a women's clinic on Orem, Autumn is a nurse in a women's hospital in Nashville and John is Heidi's dad and is the project manager.  Both women are returned missionaries who speak Portuguese.  Heidi served in Portugal and Capo Verde and Autumn served in Brazil.  All three provide such great service and work with our local humanitarian missionaries, the Wollenziens.  They were so fun to get to know and we loved John's Australian accent.  The Church is very committed to this program, spending about $5 million dollars a year on it throughout the world.

Heidi, John and Autumn in our spacious living room.

This is neo-natal Natalie.  Note the clear penguin like squeeze bottle.
It is the refined version of the old blue bulb syringe for clearing noses from my children's era.

After the training the professionals are graded on their abilities
to get the mask on right the first time.

The babies are inflated and their is a cord attached that you
push to simulate a heart beat when things are done correctly.

There were doctors, nurses and mid-wives attended the training.

Local Color



I thought this group at the well was a very colorful sight.  When we stopped the car to look and take a picture, the ladies all primped and posed and those working the hand pump doubled their speed.

Local kids--very cute of course

We have been having spectacular dry winter weather, enabling all the local fields to be used for soccer.  Mozambicans are perhaps not as enthusiastic about the sport as Brazilians, but they still like it alot.

This was the snack offerred at a lesson today.  Some variety of potato, cooked but otherwise ungarnishd.  I cant say that it was awful, but Debbie did seem to like it more than I.

Elder Gibson, who is an otherwise intelligent young man, approached a dog and placed his hand on its head to calm the troubled beast.  He is pictured here getting his had bandaged and examined by visiting humanitarian missionary and Nurse Practitioner, Sister McSweeney.  He displays no sign of rabies, but we have to tie him up to keep him from chasing cars.

in absentia

We awoke early this morning and attended the wedding (via skype) of our second son, Elijah to Deborah Lamb. (I guess if she takes his name, we will have two Debbie Osborns kicking around Anchorage soon).
The video stream was grainy but the occasion was joyous and a very positive step for him and his wife and their beautiful daughter, Lyla.  I have learned, slowly, to be grateful and appreciative of steps of whatever size, if they are in the right direction--they are so much better than the other kind.
We are old enough to still be amazed by technological "miracles" such as this.

Caixas abertas and other tales

In the Mozambican vernacular, a caixa aberta, or open box is the term to describe a very common mode of transport--as shown below:

Historically, the young missionaries have travelled a lot via caixa aberta as it is often all that is available.  In particular, the city of Marromeu where we have oversight responsibility, has no regular bus service.  It is on the far end of a hundred kilometer very rough dirt road and the young missionaries have generally gone in and out in an open truck bed like that shown.  When I first came, I was somewhat appalled, but rapidly became simply pragmatic--but in truth, it always seemed to be that we were one bounce away from a tragedy with one of our missionaries.  Well, the new mission president, has more spine than I and has said, "no more" (or since he is Brasilian, it was "nao mais").  That was a wise decision for safety but we are left with the logistical challenge of moving young elders in and out of Marromeu.  The two missionaries there both required their visas to be renewed this week, which necessitated them being present in Quelimane.  As a result, Debbie and I have spent twenty hours on the road between these two cities--on what may be about the worst road in Mozambique (which would make it the worst in the world).  We are a bit weary of driving but the 4 legs of the two round-trips were not without their interesting sights.  We found that the time passed more quickly when we had no passengers and could crank up the ipod full of oldies and sing (poorly but loudly) to each other.

Guinea fowl are abundant in the jungle on the road to Marromeu and one will grace our table on Sunday.


This creature we found in the middle of the road today.  It measured about four feet in length and we thought it dead at first.  When I saw it wink at me (or perhaps it was a cold hungry glare) I contemplated rigging a noose and lifting it into the pickup bed to also serve for an interesting meal this weekend (we have visiting humanitarian workers from the states for lunch on Sunday).  The beast (I wish I could identify just what it is beyond " big lizard") thundered off into the brush when I approached it with a stick--too bad, (I'm sure a lizard hindquarter would be outstanding).

The skies are black from brush burning fires.  Many of them out of control.  They are started by folks burning their fields after the harvest, both to clear them of stalks and weeds but also, we are told, to get rid of the enormous population of rats (though I suspect that they simply move to the neighbors)

The road really is quite rough into Marromeu and we developed a horrendous rattle that made it seem as if the truck was about to implode.  Elders Coombs and Derrickson performed some triage and surgery to get us back home.  Shown in the foreground is indeed bailing wire--the most useful thing in repairs next to duct tape.

Location:470,Quelimane,Mozambique

Teaching and Learning

     Every Saturday afternoon at 2pm (14:00) is Aula de Ingles (english class) at the church.  When I am here I teach, otherwise the Elders take care of it.  I am used to teaching in an organized format, where each lesson builds upon skills taught previously.  This is pretty impossible for this class.  Some weeks there are two people, sometimes 20 people.  Some people know a little English, others almost none.  So, I have had to shed my desire to accomplish a lot in the classes and instead focus on learning something during that hour and hope they will use it during the week.
     This week, I decided to try something fun.  I wanted to teach words that have to do with time and order.  Such words as first, second, third, finally, then next.  It can also be called sequencing.  We reviewed the terms and then basic vocabulary for a group activity.  I showed them how  to talk about steps by opening a small water bottle, then pouring in water, then added a dry drink mix, then shaking it so it was ready to drink.  Oh, we did talk about taking the lid off and putting it back on.  Then, I divided the class into three groups.  One had to demonstrate washing your hands, another one showed how to brush your teeth and the third groups showed us how to cook rice.  It turned out to be a great lesson as the pictures below will show.
     In Primary, the children's class,  music is essential.  I have enjoyed teaching songs in Portuguese.  When we were visiting a different city last week and I was helping in Primary, imagine my surprise when the Elders had everyone stand up and the kids say this song in English: "Do as I'm Doing".  It is an action song where you repeat a motion, fast, slow, high or low.  It is a great way to break up a lot of sitting in a chair time for kids.
      All in all, most everything we do is teaching.  Sometimes we get frustrated when we have taught a principle three times and upon review, the investigator claims to have never heard of it.  So.. we approach it in a different way.  With the maid, I am always teaching her about cleaning, since her mud hut and my appliances don't have a lot in common.  The Elders teach us cultural things every day from other areas.  Just living in Africa is a time of teaching and learning and we really love doing both those things.

Who knew cooking rice would bring out the comedian in Guildino.

Washing hands takes more steps than they had English words for!

Paulo working on personal hygiene.

This group was serious about their work, even adding the step of opening the packages of the brush and paste.

Can you roll your arms high or low?

Finally a tribute to Elder Gibson and Elder Croft who had back to back birthdays
this week.  I made a carrot cake and had candles that kept re-lighting.  They are great Elders.